Detailed History

The history of the church is associated with Hafod Uchtryd Estate. Generations of the Squires have had a great influence on the building.

Eglwys Newydd Hafod Church also affectionately known as Hafod Church is dedicated to St.Michael and All Angels. It is an impressive Grade II* listed building with a fascinating but sad history and is situated in a quiet and picturesque area on the boundary of the enchanting Hafod Estate, in a severely depopulated area within the Cambrian Mountains.

The first church on the site was built in 1620 by Morgan Herbert who had established himself as the Squire of Hafod Uchtryd, having bought leases on farms which had belonged to the monastery at Strata Florida Abbey. In the 18th century, the daughter and heiress of the Herbert family married Thomas Johnes of Dolaucothi and Llanfair Clydogau, and when she died childless the property stayed in the Johnes family.

In 1780 Thomas Johnes inherited the estate and established himself as a pioneer in new forestry and farming methods. The Hafod Estate was developed into one of the most picturesque landscapes in Europe, and became an essential destination for the early visitor. (Copies of the early visitor books can be seen at the church.) He built himself a beautiful mansion designed by Thomas Baldwin of Bath, and then in 1803 he commissioned James Wyatt, best known as the restorer of Salisbury Cathedral, to design an impressive new Gothic style church. Thomas Johnes was a member of parliament and travelled widely. He was  also a distinguished collector and returned home with some world treasures for his mansion and church. There was an altar piece by Fuseli at the church. He commissioned renowned London studios such as The Eleanor Coade Studio to create a pulpit, and a font decorated with the Johnes family Coat of Arms with figures representing the Cardinal Virtues.

Eleanor Coade (3 June 1733 – 16 November 1821) was a British businesswoman well known for manufacturing Neoclassical statues, and architectural decorations, made of “Lithodipyra” (Coade stone) for over 50 years from 1769 until her death. She produced stoneware for St George’s Chapel, Windsor and Buckingham Palace amongst many other places of interest. The font is still in place at the church today.

The Renaissance stained glass which he brought back from the Low Countries for the east window was bought from an abbey church in Antwerp, and was considered to be the finest collection of Renaissance stained glass in Wales. Pieces of this glass were salvaged from among the tiles and molten metal lying on the floor following a disastrous fire on the 24^th April 1932. These were grouped into diamonds and roundels and placed in the two windows on either side of the central chancel window. These again are still to be seen at the church today.

Sadly Thomas Johnes’s only child, Mariamne died at the early age of 27. Following her death he commissioned The Francis Chantry Studios to sculpt a marble memorial in memory of her for the church. Sir Francis Leggatt Chantrey 1781–1841 was an outstanding portrait sculptor. He was particularly admired for his penetrating studies of characters and the uncluttered contours of his busts and statues. His first major achievement in funerary art was the monument to Mariamne. This model of the memorial was too large to exhibit at the Academy and was shown at Spring Gardens, London, in 1812. Thomas Johnes was reportedly overcome by emotion when he saw the finished work in the studio. He himself died in 1816, and was buried in the vault with his daughter at Hafod Church. Years later, the marble memorial which he had commissioned was brought to the church through the generosity of the Duke of Newcastle, who had purchased the Hafod Estate. Sadly the marble memorial was shattered by the fire of 1932, but is still in place at the church. Among other historic treasures damaged in the fire was a Byzantine Urn, once owned by the monks of Strata Florida, but which has been re-assembled and again has its position in the church.

The outward appearance of the church has not changed very much, but unfortunately the internal Gothic roof and fittings were badly damaged by a fire in 1932. The excellent restoration work on this occasion was overseen by W. D. Caröe. He designed the attractive barrel shaped limed oak roof, the present beautifully detailed furnishings and fittings around some of the original features. These can be seen and admired by the thousands of visitors who visit the church every year.

The church has formed an important part of the community for over 400 years. Many of the Squires of the Estate have been buried in the churchyard along with Captains of the local lead mines, lead miners, farmers, shepherds, craftsmen, shopkeepers and estate workers. Much social history has been researched, and we now have a touch screen kiosk in the church to enable visitors seeking their family history to easily locate the graves of their loved ones in the churchyard. The Conservation Foundation has certified that one of the yew trees is one of the oldest in Mid Wales.